August 2003. After 17 years my original water pump was delivering almost no water pressure. It was time for a new pump.

One of the weak points in my system has been the "hard pipe" connection between the water pump and the water heater. (red line) The vibration can be transferred to the heater and cause more noise and premature wearing of the fittings. The plumber of this trailer turned the heater fitting so the pipe runs parallel to the floor. It is too close so the pounding it takes against the floor caused the weld on the lower heater connection to leak. Note the shims under the water heater to give a little clearance between the pipe and the floor. This has worked since 1987.
You would think for $188 you would get all new hardware but you don't. Save the mounting screws you will need to reuse them.

The pump comes with a quick connect fitting. In order to use this fitting you connect it to the line first and then slide the fitting into the pump and put on a retaining collar. There are three "o" rings on the fitting. Lubricate them liberally with plumbers grease.This is a computer controlled pump so the polarity must be correct or you will burn it out. Once I verify the hot line I wire nut the lines into place for a test pump. I am still very suspicious of the quick connect fitting.

I bounce around the pump with my hands to simulate what might happen when jostled down the road. Sure enough the fitting broke loose. There is too much tension created by the direct hard pipe connection. I will now follow the "recommended" directions and install a flexible hose on both ends of the pump. This will also reduce the noise.The perk I got with the flexible hose was that I could position the pump over to gain more storage space. This 32S has twin beds. The pump is located under the road side bed.